The Forgotten Islands East of Bali: Sumba, Sumbawa and Beyond
An hour or two from Bali's crowds lie islands with empty beaches, living traditions and almost no package tourism. Where to go and how to get there.
Eleven countries, two monsoons, and the best value long-form travel on the planet — if you learn to read the weather.
Southeast Asia is a region rather than a country, and the single most useful thing you can learn is that it has two monsoons, not one. The southwest monsoon and the northeast monsoon hit different coastlines at different times, which means there is almost always somewhere in the region at its best. This is what makes a three or four month trip viable here and nowhere else on earth for the same money.
Reference facts for planning Southeast Asia.
Where the good months sit, and why.
November – February
The regional peak. Most of mainland Southeast Asia is dry and comfortable; book accommodation ahead around Christmas and Lunar New Year.
March – May
Very hot but excellent for diving and for travelling on a tight budget. Songkran and other water festivals fall in April.
June – October
Cheaper and quieter, with short heavy downpours rather than all-day rain. Eastern coasts are at their best while the west is wet.
Months to think twice about: Booking a fixed multi-country itinerary around a single visa-free window without checking each country's rules. Entry conditions differ considerably and change often.
The places that justify the trip, and the guides we have written for them.
Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia
Away from Bali and Phuket, thousands of islands with liveaboard diving, empty beaches and village homestays.
Vietnam, Laos, Thailand
Karst landscapes, hill-tribe trekking and cool highlands — a completely different region from the beaches.
Cambodia, Myanmar, Thailand
Bagan, Angkor, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai: the archaeological heart of mainland Southeast Asia.
Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam
Slow river travel through four countries, with the delta and the gorges at either end.
Entry rules vary widely by country and by passport. Many offer visa-free entry or e-visas for short tourism stays.
Use each country's official government immigration portal for e-visas. Agent sites are widespread and often charge several times the official fee.
Rough per-person costs, excluding international flights.
Three ways to structure a trip, depending on how much time you have.
4 – 6 weeks
Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Laos, northern Vietnam, Cambodia, back to Bangkok. The classic first long trip in the region.
3 – 4 weeks
Philippines and eastern Indonesia following the dry season, with diving or island hopping as the spine.
3 weeks
Bangkok south through Malaysia to Singapore, with islands on the east or west coast depending on the monsoon.
Southeast Asia has one of the densest low-cost airline networks in the world, which makes flying often cheaper than the equivalent bus or train. Buses and sleeper trains cover everywhere else. Ferries and fast boats link the islands, and liveaboards are the standard way to reach the best diving. Grab and Gojek-style ride apps work in most cities.
The region is well-trodden and generally safe. The realistic hazards are road traffic, undertow on unpatrolled beaches, petty theft in tourist areas, and waterborne illness — drink treated water, be sceptical of ice in remote places, and be aware that motorbike accidents are the single most common cause of serious injury to travellers here.
Long-form guides published for this destination.
An hour or two from Bali's crowds lie islands with empty beaches, living traditions and almost no package tourism. Where to go and how to get there.
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Skip the Bali crowds with the best undiscovered islands in Southeast Asia. Quiet beaches, coral reefs, and turquoise water in Indonesia, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, and the Philippines.